Friday, April 27, 2012

Ahh! Real Monsters


I have come to realize that so much of what we do in America is to prevent ourselves from getting sick.

The way we cook, wash, clean…isn’t the point to not get sick?

Yet, out here, it’s nearly impossible to keep up with the same standards of cleanliness as I do back home. Germs and bugs are everywhere! To make it worse, my super clean lifestyle in America has probably weakened my immune system for this environment; making me susceptible to just about anything.  

If I swallow even a gulp of un-boiled, un-treated water I guarantee I will feel the consequences within 12 hours. I feel like I’m constantly at war with mold and bacteria here. I have a fridge that was very generously donated to me. If power does not go away for longer than 24 hours, the fridge is a great resource. Unfortunately, if we go beyond that 24 hour mark, the ice begins to precipitate and somehow, bacteria creeps its way on to my food…now instead of being a cold box to extend the life of my food, it becomes a warm, moist box that bacteria thrives in. I try to wipe down the moisture before it gets to that point, but it is hard to time it right. I have to wonder if the best thing to do is keep the door shut to hold in whatever cool air is left and hope that the power kicks on before Mr. Mold comes to party inside with all that moisture. Like I said, it is a constant battle!

If I don’t rinse out and dry my water bottles each night, they will accumulate mold by morning. I have to sweep my apartment several times a day, because even the smallest particle of sugar attracts ants, and when one comes they bring the whole extended family and start scouring my whole place like the DEA on a drug raid! The other night I was sipping on some red wine while watching a movie and when I went to take a swig, I did my routine “glance in the cup for bugs” gig, and sure enough, a fly was trying to enjoy my wine too…from the looks of it, the fly had encountered an overdose. Wine is hard to come by, so naturally I reached in, grabbed the drowned bug and flicked him towards the trash. Obviously, I kept drinking. My goodness, I wish I was kidding.

A similar thing happened when I ate my dinner that same night. I had re-heated some mashed potatoes from the night before…I noticed a black/brown thing in my forkful of potato I was about to eat…at first I thought, “Mmm I love the bites with potato skin…” then, “wait a minute…I peeled these potatoes…they shouldn’t have skin…” Gross. I was hungry, and two of the expressions my dad always says came to mind, “What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger…” and, specifically regarding bugs in my food, “Mmm Protein!”  Despite the intrigue of adding protein to my meal, simply out of principle, I dug the bug out of my bite and tossed him too. I didn’t feel sick the next day, so that’s something. Maybe I’m getting stronger!

Yesterday I had a day full of moments that I can only describe as “reminders of where I am.” When I woke up I found a spider that was relatively flat, but at least as big as my fist hanging out in my wash basin in my bathroom.  My rule on spiders is that if they aren’t hurting me, I won’t hurt them…UNLESS they are the size of my fist. I calmly went potty, washed my hands in the other basin, got dressed for the day, and then sprayed the heck out of it until it died… I calmly shut the door to the bathroom and my bedroom and started making breakfast like nothing ever happened. Then a couple hours later, I scraped my shoulder on the metal door as I re-entered my apartment…back home, a scratch like this wouldn’t make me think anything other than, “ouch!” But I am currently in the middle of a lesson plan on vaccinations and immune systems…we covered Tetanus the day before. There was a flicker of “Oh, $#@&!” in my mind, but then I calmly remembered that I have recently had my Tetanus vaccination, and I have no need to worry about the huge gash on my shoulder…other than to clean and treat it regularly to prevent any of the other diseases/infections I could get from it. Then as a grand finale to my day of remembering where I am, I was stung by a wasp! It attacked me in the middle of my explanation to the peer-health students about the differences between viruses and bacteria (I took my rapidly swelling forearm as a learning opportunity to teach them hands-on what the body’s immune response looks like.) The nurses were both present and by the end of the class, the head nurse came over to examine the arm…when we saw that the swelling had completely disappeared, she said, “Oh! Looks like somebody took her vitamins today!” Ha.

Yes, this girl takes her vitamins EVERY day. Bacteria, viruses, infections, and God’s little monsters put up too big of a front for me to not reinforce my immune system!

With love,
Kristen

Tuesday, April 24, 2012

Simanyi…bambi yogera mpola mpola!


[I don’t’ know…please speak more slowly]

My Luganda has improved a lot. I’m not able to hold a conversation; I’m not even able to understand a full conversation between people near me. Yet, when I look at my vocabulary at week 9 last time, and my vocabulary now-again at week 9-I have improved greatly.

We don’t offer Luganda as a language in American schools. Why should we, when out of the whole world, only people of this region of Uganda use it as their main language? Yet schools in Uganda teach English. By the time a person has finished secondary school, he or she is probably fluent in English. I have been in Uganda for a cumulative time of 18 weeks. I speak enough to be polite-or at least that is what I told myself until last week. It had always been a declaration of mine that I would learn to speak enough to be polite in every place I travel in this world. After many people have been pestering me about my “lack of understanding,” I have come to “understand” that because I am not fluent in Luganda, I am therefore being impolite. Some people find it upsetting that I could be here for “so long” and not pick up such an “easy” language. I’d be willing to bet they aren’t half as upset as I am!

In my defense I can say, “Good morning! How are you? I am fine! Well done, Madam or Sir! You are welcome. Welcome home. Good to be home! My name is Nankya Kristen. Woman, man, children, grandparent/elder. Come, let’s go. You go away. All of you go away. You are my friend. I am cold. I am tired. We move slowly. Drive slow. Good evening. Safe journey. Good bye. Thank you. Yes please.”

Like I said, I thought it was enough to be polite! I guess I will need to be doing flashcards in my spare time. Foreign language comes easily for some—not me though. I recall needing a tutor to get me through high school Spanish. This time, I don’t have a tutor, but I did buy a Luganda phrasebook while in Kampala…

Wish me luck,
Nze Nankya Kristen

Monday, April 16, 2012

All in a day


A few people have requested that I share what a typical day looks like for me. So here it is, a basic (albeit very long) explanation from eyes open to close. Some things are the same as home, some things are similar (with a big influence of creativity on my part), and some things are very different… 

When I wake up, I un-tuck myself from my mosquito net on the right side of my bed… Then I make my bed so that bugs are less likely to find their way between my sheets during the day. Then I take off my socks, fold them, and place them at the foot of my bed. These are my “sleep socks” that protect me at night (don’t worry, I trade them out every 2 or 3 days)...Before I step out from under the mosquito net, I put on my flip-flops that I had set beside my bed the night before. Now I duck under my net and re-tuck it behind me (also to keep things out during the day). I usually go right to the bathroom—without being too descriptive, I will explain that after I “go” and before I wipe, I pour water from a 5L jug into a small wash basin. Then after I wipe, I wash my hands with the bar of soap sitting on my (useless) sink and the basin of water. I then pour the water into the toilet to rinse down my business.

Now I get dressed…usually involving a sports bra that I left hanging on a nail on the bathroom door a few days prior, a tank top, a short sleeved solid-color shirt, and a below-the-knee skirt.   I typically tuck in my shirt, because Ugandan’s think this looks “smarter.” Then I put on one of my two pairs of Keen sandals (I alternate these each day so they air out and prevent foot fungus.) I unlock my bedroom door (twisting the key two full turns)…If there is power, I will flip on the bedroom light, if not, I will make due without (usually by the time I wake up, there is enough sunlight to see)…I usually look in the mirror my friend Kelly gave me to assess my hair-status for the day. I tend to alternate days that I wash my hair, so if I washed it the night before, I will run my hands through the tangles and call it good…if I didn’t wash it, I will grab my baby powder and sprinkle a handful on my roots and near my neck to soak up the grease (thanks again Kate!) Usually I look less gross after this…but if it is still ridiculous, I will put my hair back in a bun and try to compensate with bobby pins and/or a headband.

Now my stomach is probably growling, so I go into my front room and open my window curtain and tie it in a knot. Sometimes, I unlock the padlock on my front door, but I rarely open it right away to give myself a few more peaceful-childless moments. However, if I am out of water, I will place my empty 5 gallon jerry-can at the edge of my veranda so the water man sees it when he does his morning bike-through. (When he comes, he takes a full jerry-can that he collected from the local water reservoir and dumps it via upside down water bottle funnel into mine. I pay him 500 shillings, say, “good morning, how are you?” in Luganda and lug the water back inside.) Now I can start breakfast. I pour water from my “drinkable” stash in to the tea kettle and I start the burner for my tea. Most mornings, I eat granola (kept in my air-tight food storage bin) and a splash of long life milk (kept in my cold-as-long-as-there-is-power fridge) and I like to drizzle locally made honey on top. Some days I make a pb&j sandwich, or I make something with eggs from the school. If I have bananas, I cut those up and make a banana, peanut butter, and honey sandwich. Yum.

I keep my aloe vera, deodorant, sunscreen, vitamins, and a devotions book directly in front of where I eat breakfast. While I allow my tea to finish boiling, I put on my deodorant, then aloe-vera (because I’m almost always sun burned) then sunscreen (obviously it isn’t that protective, but it’s good to make an effort!) then I place one multi-vitamin next to my breakfast to take when my stomach is full. Before I sit down, I pour myself tea. If there is power, I will grab my laptop from beside my bed and play iTunes while I eat. Sometimes I use this time to check my emails too. If no power, then I will eat my breakfast while reading my daily devotional and think about its meaning. Once I finish, I take my vitamin with my tea. Sometimes, when power has been on consecutively, I will place a water bottle with crystal lite powder in the fridge so I can have something cold in the morning. It’s a nice treat.

I take my dirty dishes to the “dirty dish basin” and put them in upside down (to reduce fruit flies). I take more drinkable water and pour it into a cup in the bedroom. I brush my teeth using this water, and when I’m done, I use the last of the water to rinse my toothbrush. When I finish, I put the lid back on the cup to…yep, keep the bugs out of it. At this point, I usually spend some time tidying the apartment (sweep, put dishes away, take out the trash to the nearby field used as a burn pile, etc.)

After this point, every morning differs. Sometimes the nurses arrive and we go do our work together. Sometimes George meets me at my apartment and we work on planning, writing, or discussing tasks. Some days I leave my apartment for meetings at one of the campuses. I have also had work days that involve me working alone in my apartment…those days I open my door and let the neighbor kids come sit in the doorway and watch me type.

There are two campuses for the school, my apartment is located approx. ½ a mile to each. Going in to town is a little over a ½ mile, and I really only do that when I need to buy something. If I am at one of the schools at break time (10:30am) I will eat porridge there. If I am there at 1:00, I will take lunch there, usually involving posho (flour and water solid thing) or matooke (mashed up flavor-less banana like plantains), and beans. Sometimes they serve salad (a coleslaw type dish sans the mayo) and sometimes they serve meat instead of beans. If I am at my apartment for lunch, I will either eat leftovers from the night before, a pb&j, or I’ll make a single serving of pasta.

Most of my “formal” working days end around 5:00. I usually take a couple hours to unwind with a book or my journal and some tea on the veranda. During this time, the kids from the SAC Family visit me and (try to) teach me Luganda , take pictures with my camera, and draw pictures in one of my journals. The girls from next door also like to join me on my veranda to play with my hair, sing & dance for--and if my mood is right, with--me, or just snuggle up while I read. Around 6:30-7:00 the sun starts to fade and the mosquitos start visiting. I always make sure the kids from SAC have left by now, so they don’t cross the busy highway after dusk. I will usually go inside at this point and apply mosquito repellant. If there is power, I play my iTunes and let the girls dance in my apartment while I start dinner. (The reason for only playing music if there is power, is that I can never know if it is out for a few hours, for the night, or for the next 48 hours to a week…best to error on the side of conservation, so I don’t waste battery on music that could be used for work.)If there is no power then I make sure either my candles or lantern are within reach, because once the sun drops down, it is pitch black. I also try to cook dinner faster when we don’t have power, so it is one less thing I have to do by dim light. During the power-less nights, I like to eat dinner by the light of 2 or 3 candles instead of a lantern because it gives the illusion that I’m at a nice restaurant. 

After dinner, with or without power, I was dishes. This involves spreading three basins on the floor, one has my dirty dishes (if it is overflowing, I will stack a few to the side) then two have water in them. I pour a little water in the dish basin and a drizzle of dish soap over them. At this point, I put some water in the tea kettle to start boiling. Then I wash the dishes, and place them into the second basin. One by one, I splash-rinse the dishes in the second basin to remove the soap… When the soap is gone I place them one by one into the third basin of water and let them sit until the water is boiled. I repeat this process until my dishes are washed. Then I dry my hands, put on my oven mitt, grab the tea kettle and individually rinse each of my dishes with hot water, setting them aside on the dish strainer to dry. When I finish, I pour more water into the tea kettle to heat for my bath. Then I take the soapy dish basin to the toilet and pour it out. I then rinse the remaining soap with water from the second basin and pour it out again, I repeat for the third basin. Sometimes, the basins need to be washed too, or the sponge needs to be sanitized, so I will pour more boiling water on them again. I have inevitably made a mess of the floor, so I grab my scrub brush and mop up the puddles of water.

At this point, I’m almost always sweating so I may as well exercise, right?! I try to spend about 30-45 minutes working out. By the end, I make sure the water starts heating for my bath, and I take one of my 5L jugs (if they are all empty, I will put one empty jug into a wash basin and place another basin in front of it (this is to catch the water I’m about to spill all over to reduce waste) then I place a bottomless water bottle upside down into the jug as a funnel, I bend at the knees and lift my jerry-can to re-fill the jug…now I take the spilled water I knew would come and pour it in to the wash basin in the bathroom) I pour about an inch of water into the big wash basin in the bathroom, about ½ an inch into the small basin, and I fill my solar shower bag about half way. By now, the water is boiling, so I put the glove back on and fill both basins with this water. After returning the tea kettle to the front room, I make sure my window and door are shut and locked. I take my laptop and cell phone into the bedroom and set them on the plastic stool that I use as a bedside table. Now I make sure the light is off (or the candles blown out) in the front room and I lock myself into my room with my keys. Whether or not my power is on, I always make sure the lantern is placed at the doorway of the bathroom (it only takes one mid-bath blackout to ensure this step is in place.)

Then I pull my hair into a bun, and put on my headband (since I bathe bending over, this makes my life easier. If I don’t wash my hair that night, I will not have to worry about semi-wet dirty hair) I make sure my towel is hanging on a nail on the inside of the door and my flip flops are on. I add a splash of anti-bacterial rinse to the tub these days because I was getting gross pustules all over my body from bacteria in my bathing water! Ew. I always wash my arms, then torso/back, lady parts, then feet. Then I dip my hair into the water to get it wet, and I take down my hair and was it with shampoo. I rinse my hair with the nozzle of the solar shower, and squirt the rest of me for good measure. Once I’m rinsed, I put my hair back in a bun and wash my face in the small basin. I’d like to mention that all this takes place in a squatted position on my bathroom floor, so the splash factor makes a big mess. I pour out the big basin in the toilet; move my toilet-allotted jug and water basins from the floor; return my soap container and shampoo to their place in the doorway; and I squeegee the water towards the drain in the floor. I’ve learned there is no sense getting dried off and dressed before this step because it always makes my feet wet and body sweaty again (I know, why bathe, right?!)  When the floor is cleaned, I will return the basins and water jug to the floor, always directly over the drain to prevent cockroaches from crawling through (ew, I know, so incredibly ewww!) I wash my hands in the little basin (which I purposefully left water in for this reason) and pour this out in…yep, the toilet.

Now I finally get to dry off (although, usually by now I have air dried since it’s so hot) and I put on my pjs. I brush my teeth like I did this morning. I grab the lantern and flick it on, turn off the light (if it was on) and place the lantern on my “bedside table,” I lift the edge of my mosquito net, set my flip flops leaning up against my bed, crawl under the net, put on my socks, un-tuck my sheets (after inspecting the top and under my pillow for…bugs) and I turn on my head lamp. I turn off the lantern, and put my cell phone by my pillow. I re-tuck the net securely, before getting under the sheets, experience has taught me to shine the head-lamp under to search for bugs. If the coast is clear, I will get in and lie down. Now I am probably sweating again, because I have had a long day full of work! Sometimes, I read by headlamp, or watch a tv show or movie in bed (warranting power). That’s also usually a good time to call the bf if it’s our talk-day. Many days, I am too tired to do any of that and I just go to sleep. There you have it. 

I can’t believe you read all the way to the end!  Gyebale! [Well done!]

With love,
Kristen          

Saturday, April 14, 2012

Gratification


There is something almost gratifying about washing my clothes by hand. Here are the clothes that have walked with me through the dirt and dust, they too have been touched by greasy, dirty hands, and they have inevitably had my every meal wiped/spilled/splashed upon them…to clean these clothes requires a great deal of strength and a large amount of soap and water. Looking at the bucket of dirty water left behind by my freshly scrubbed clothes cleanses more than my wardrobe. 

I can’t help but think, “I did this.” I have cleaned so that I may start again. 

Very gratifying indeed. 

It’s too bad that drying them on the line always leaves them sort of crunchy…clean…but crunchy. 

With love,
Kristen

Monday, April 9, 2012

A series of journal thoughts...Part 5

Shit in this world.

Writer’s note: I wrote this during my third week, which was a week after the bus accident. I didn’t post it then because I didn’t want my already worried mother to become even more worried. However, it is even truer today as it was a month ago. Another note, parents might want to pre-screen this one before letting their kids read. 

It’s amazing to me that the more shit I witness in this world, the less it seems to affect me.
I pray that I will not someday become a bitter, untrusting old woman. I hope instead to reach old age as a compassionate and immensely understanding woman; a woman who sees the world through clear eyes… all the good and all the bad.

So far in life, I understand that each of us has the potential for both good and bad within us.  It seems as if we have control of our actions and therefore the ability to control whether good or bad behaviors prevail. Sometimes, this is something we cannot do alone. 

These beliefs became real to me on the way back from Queen Elizabeth National Park, when--in broad daylight-- I was awoken from a nap by the sudden stop of our vehicle and loud shouting in the distance. I looked out the front window to find a mob of people in the middle of the road about 100 yards ahead. All traffic stopped in both directions and at first, it was unclear what was going on. Then our driver stopped a man walking in our direction and we discovered the cause of commotion.

An act of what I have come to identify as, “village law” was taking place. Apparently, a man who was well known for committing frequent acts of robbery had stolen a vehicle. Villagers became fed-up with this behavior and decided to put an end to it. When I heard this, the scene in front of me became clearer. There were at least 100 men brandishing large sticks, metal poles, and even several thick cuts of timber. The weapons were moving up and down in two areas of the mob. Then, in an instant, as we watched the scene unfold, the crowd dispersed. They ran in every direction with huge satisfied grins plastered to their faces. Our driver told us they heard the police were on their way. 

As we drove along the newly cleared road, I saw the bloody, bashed in remains of the man—I saw the skeleton remains of his stolen vehicle—I saw what Ugandans refer to as, “a crime of justice.”

I saw humanity at its worst. 

I’d like to note two things. The first being for my mom, to know that as soon as I saw the mob, I instantly texted my cousin in Kampala so he knew we were en route, just in case we met trouble. The second note being that as I passed the dead “criminal” my mind couldn’t resist the image of our Lake Mburo driver who hit and killed a boda boda driver on our way back from the study tour. I couldn’t help but wonder how narrowly he had escaped the same fate that night. He too, “committed a crime” by killing the driver, and village law wanted to take his life for “justice.”

It seems almost ignorant not to have some kind of faith when in this type of environment. Even to believe that all things happen for a reason would make life here “make sense.” If you were to ask me to name the angels mentioned in the Bible, explain what the Wise Men brought to Jesus’ birth, or name even one Gospel, I’d probably give you a blank stare and a polite shrug (then, out of curiosity, ask Dan to explain the answer to me later.) Yet, I am certain that if you asked me whether or not there was a higher power, I can whole heartedly give you an honest, yes

My angels, (whom I like to believe are comprised of those who loved me and have passed away,) are constantly keeping my Mzungu tush out of trouble for good reason; there is a lot of shit in this world.
I find it is easier to tread through the world’s shit when someone bigger than me carries some of the burden with me. I can’t explain why good people do bad things. I can’t even explain why I have done and will probably continue to (occasional) do bad things. I can explain, if only to myself, that doing bad things doesn’t make me a bad person. I must weigh each of my decisions on the grounds of, “is this good, or is this bad. What are the consequences for me and those around me?” Sometimes I make the wrong decisions. Sometimes good people do bad things. 

When in doubt, I seek council with someone who has more authority than me, who will--in the very least--share the burden left from the consequences of my decisions and the decisions of those around me.  

This concludes my blog-bombardment for the day. I hope I have intrigued, educated, inspired, or in the very least, amused you for today!

With love,
Kristen

A series of journal thoughts...Part 4


Give a little, it feels good.

"I shall pass through this world but once. Any good thing that I can do or any kindness that I can show to any human being, let me do it now and not defer it, for I will not pass this way again."
                                                            Quote taken from This is a Soul by Marilyn Berger

About a week ago, two students who live at the SAC Family came to visit. One boy’s backpack was broken, so I sewed it back together with the cheap sewing kit I bought at the last minute before leaving America. The other boy showed me his bag and it was beyond my amateur seamstress abilities…the zippers were “unhinged” and I could not easily get them back on track without doing more damage. The boy’s friend, Phillip nudged the boy, Dan, and told him in a whisper, “Tell her, she is nice, I know she will help.” Dan looked at me with a guilty, almost desperate face and said, “The man in town can fix it for 400 shillings…but I don’t have.” What a dilemma. 400 shillings is less than 20 cents USD. What if I gave him the money and word gets out that Bank of Kristen is open for business? What about those sad, innocent, pleading eyes…? Bank of Kristen is not unlimited…oh those eyes…400 shillings?

I gave him the shillings (I know. I’m weak.) But, I gave him two conditions, “1. Do not tell anyone I did this for you. I will deny it. 2. Come back to me when it is repaired so I can see.” 

My hope was that this would keep him honest. It did. He stopped by a week later with many, “Thank you, Madam…Thank you, Madam!” and a beautifully repaired bag to match a beautifully proud smile on his face. SO worth the 20 cents and any future beggars. 

I recently read a book called, “This is a Soul” by Marilyn Berger. It is the story of Dr. Rick Hodes’ work in Ethiopia. (I recommend it for a feel-good-read.) I think Dr. Hodes’ view on giving out money whenever people ask has changed my previous opinions. It used to be that I felt offended, even used whenever people request money here. When I think about the options for these orphans and needy children to approach an adult with a problem, I start to realize their situations are bleak. Who is going to pay 400 shillings for the backpack of a child who is not their own? If you made $3.00 USD a day, would you spend 20 cents on an orphan’s backpack? If food for your family cost $1.50 a day, would you still pay for that backpack? These numbers change for every family, and for every needy child, but the point remains the same. Who is going to help if I don’t? I think I need to be careful with giving money—there must be a lot of thought put in, and a lot of caution…I cannot be frivolous, or I will become “That Mzungu” who sets an unreasonable standard for all other Mzungus who come after me.
It is time to change all the same. In a child-by-child basis, I will make an effort to help when it is really needed. It is time for me to start being a better, less selfish Mzungu. 

Future kiddos should thank Dan for his sweet and genuinely grateful attitude towards my deed—Dr. Rick Hodes may have gotten me thinking about my actions, but little Dan has made me decide to change.